Jewelry Making

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1000 Rings
Inspiring Adornments for the Hand
by Lark Books
Soft cover, 8" x 8", 416 pages, copyright 2004
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Sample page A ring today is much more than a band to house a finger. The examples in this book, the best of contemporary ring design, are miniature sculptures, compact platforms on which ring-makers display their art. Rough hewn or precisely cut and polished, meticulous or improvised, stark in their simplicity or extravagant in their complexity, the designs presented in 1000 Rings will astound and delight you with their originality and beauty.
Whether a plain circle or a fancy frill, rings have always made powerful statements. Symbolic of love and marriage, rites of passage, accomplishments, and even moods, rings express personal style. The rings included here make an old form new. Gracing the pages of 1000 Rings are examples of the finest contemporary ring designs, along with insightful commentary by top artists working in the field today.
The stylistic variety is enormous, ranging from traditional avant-garde, from starkly simple to richly complex. Some are constructed from conventional jewelry making materials while others use unorthodox components such as concrete, rusted nails, fishing line, buttons or beer cans. Many incorporate humor, surprise and movement as well.
No matter what form they take or which materials they use, the rings illustrated in 1000 Rings will appeal to anyone with an interest in jewelry or contemporary art.

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500 Brooches
Inspiring Adornments for the Body
Soft cover, 8" x 8", 360 pages, copyright 2005
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Sample page 500 Brooches showcases an outstanding collection of 500 contemporary brooches featuring the inventive design and technical virtuosity of artists from around the world. It features both traditional and avant-garde approaches to the art of jewelry making. Some pieces are formed from precious metals and gemstones while others are fabricated from found objects. Some are simple and practical while others are elaborate and eccentric. This diverse and beautifully presented collection will inspire jewelers, collectors and art enthusiasts alike.
Brooches have adorned the clothing of men and women since they were first used to pin together cloaks and togas. Over time they evolved from merely functional objects to items of incredible beauty and distinction. The 500 brooches in this collection are the culmination of thousands of years of jewelry making. Some of the pieces reflect back to historical times, others push the boundaries of convention. All represent current trends in jewelry design as realized by many of the finest artists from around the world.
No matter what form they take or which materials they use, the brooches illustrated in 500 Brooches will appeal to anyone with an interest in jewelry or contemporary art.

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The Art & Craft Of Making Jewelry
A Complete Guide To Essential Techniques
by Joanna Gollberg
Hard cover, 10" x 8.5", 175 pages, copyright 2006.
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Sample Gallery When you're ready to learn extensive jewelry-making techniques and high-quality craftsmanship, The Art & Craft Of Making Jewelry provides a comprehensive resource that is exactly what you need. A wealth of information, detailed illustrations, and many handy "bench tips" on materials and methods will enable you to make individualized, one-of-a-kind pieces. In addition, the hundreds of color photographs of imaginative contemporary works are inspiring.
A variety of essential skills are covered in depth. Find out how to use dozens of tools. Learn the best way to solder precious metals, the proper posture for sawing and forging, and how to carve, chase and pierce different materials. Try more advanced techniques, such as enameling, granulation, stone setting, die forming, and simple casting.
Thirteen graceful and stylish projects allow you to put into practice what you're learning. The projects include Reversible Pendant, Chased Barrette, Pyramid Earrings, Bubble Brooch, Roller Printed Ring, Reticulated Earrings, Appliquéd Orb Bracelet, Filigree Pendant, Arched Earrings with Solder Inlay, Marriage of Metal Bracelet, Orange Sapphire Ring, Cuttle-fish-Cast Tie Tack, and Silver Brooch with Spiral Pin Stem. Create the designs as shown or use them as a springboard for your own. Use basic metalworking techniques to make the Chased Barrette, a nickel silver hair accessory that is both attractive and functional. Chic, modern Pyramid Earrings of sterling silver introduce you to hollow form construction and soldering clean seams. Progress to a sophisticated tie tack, made by cuttlefish casting 18-karat gold and setting a stone on the textured surface, or the Orange Sapphire Ring, where three faceted, flush-set sapphires come together to form a simple yet exquisitely beautiful design.
The contents are organized into 9 major chapters. Metals & Their Properties covers Precious Metals, Base Metals, Ferrous Metals, Purchasing Metals and Work Hardening and Annealing. Tools & Equipment covers Support Surfaces, Cutting Tools, Hammers, Forming Tools, The Flexible Shaft & Its Attachments, Small Hand Tools, Soldering Tools & Materials, Tool Kits, Safety Equipment, Making Chasing Tools, and Variations: Decorative Chasing Tools. Metalworking Basics covers Cold Techniques, Cold Connections, Hot Techniques and Finishing.
Forming Metal covers Bending & Shaping, Forging, Dapping, Die Forming, Scoring & Bending, Repoussé, and Cuttlefish Casting. Texturing Metal covers Roller Printing, Reticulation, and Etching. Layering Metals covers Appliqué, Granulation, Filigree, and Kum Boo.Mixing Metals covers Marriage of Metal, Mokume Gane and Solder Inlay. Adding Color covers Torch-Fired Enameling, Resin Inlay, Flush Stone Setting, and Bezel Stone Setting. Mechanisms covers Findings, Chains, Clasps & Closures, Hinges, and Stringing.
Appendices cover Metal Clay, Templates, Contributing Artists, Acknowledgements, About the Author and Index. The Art & Craft Of Making Jewelry provides a comprehensive, significant guide that will educate, challenge, and delight any reader with a passion for creating their own wearable art.

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The Art of Engraving
by James B. Meek The Art of Engraving brings to the reader - for the first time ever - a complete, authoritative, imaginative and detailed introduct5ion to and training in the art of gun engraving. It is a supremely unique book, for not only does it sweep aside the mystery which has surrounded engraving throughout the centuries, but it factually, simply and in laymen's terms tells you how to engrave. Unlike so many so called "instruction manuals", the The Art of Engraving does not assume you know anything about engraving. You start at the beginning by learning how to draw scrolls and layouts, the cut practice plates until you are sure enough of your ability to actually proceed in designing a pattern, transferring it to a gun and cutting it into the steel. Whether you want to learn to engrave now... think you might like to in the future... or simply with to broaden you knowledge of the art to be able to better judge the work of others (as you will learn to tell the good from the bad - and know why), this is the book for you. Hundreds of examples of master engraver's work to show specific styles, handling of designs, use of different techniques and the effect they achieve. Over 1378 photos, drawings, designs, illustrations and layouts. Thoroughly cross-referenced index with over 600 entries makes locating a specific tool, design, or technique fast and easy. Includes a comprehensive listing of important and useful reference books of design, engraving and metal work. Hard cover, 8.5" x 11", 196 pages.

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The Art of Jewelry Making
Classic and Original Designs
by Alan Revere The Art of Jewelry Making leads the reader through crafting an assortment of designer jewelry ranging from bold and modern to elegant to cool and funky. Projects from 25 contemporary designers and how-to are presented and illustrated with color photographs and drawings. An introductory section lays out the most important hand tools used for holding, measuring, cutting, forming heating and drawing. Essential techniques like engraving, forging, soldering and enameling are described and covered. Soft cover, 8.5" x 10", 144 pages.

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Basic Jewelry Making Techniques
by Jinks McGrath
Soft cover, 11" x 8.5", 112 pages, copyright 1993
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Sample page Many people regard making jewelry as being too complex and time consuming. Basic Jewelry Making Techniques shows how, once the basic techniques are mastered, even the most apparently complicated pieces can be easily made at home.
Author Jinks McGrath covers every aspect you need to know to get started: the essential tools to buy, larger equipment that can be bought as you skills develop, and some suggestions for workshop designs, including what to do if you have a minimal amount of space available.
In addition to presenting a comprehensive primer on smithing and metal work, the author encourages you to be inventive by using such diverse materials as wood, acrylics, papier mâchaé, and glass. Among the basic jewelry making skills explained and illustrated are soldering, using wire, texturing, setting stones, enameling, casting, engraving, forging, working with gold and more. All the techniques needed to produce highly original pieces are explained with the aid of precise notes and instructive illustrations. Practice your newly acquired skills on project pieces that have been specially created and which incorporate all the general principles of technique and design. Each project is flexible enough to be modified to suit your own interpretation of the design.
The book is organized into four major sections: (1) Planning Your Workshop, (2) Designing Your Own Projects, (3) Basic Techniques, and (4) Advanced Techniques. All the technical information you need is at your fingertips in a variety of tables which give useful conversion formulas and temperatures. Basic Jewelry Making Techniques has everything you need to know whether you just want to dabble or make it your full time career.

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Chains by Becky
Twenty Projects from Novice to Advanced by Helen Goga and Alan Gooding
Soft cover, 11" x 8.5", 71 pages, copyright 2006
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Sample page Chains by Becky is illustrated, edited and published by Helen Goga and Alan Gooding, the ample talent behind Wire Artist Jeweler magazine. This how-to book is outstanding in its genre, presenting 20 chain making projects suitable for novice to advanced chain makers with completely illustrated step-by-step instructions. Several sections provide basic chain making information regarding the modest tools required and their various applications, as well as detailing several techniques for skillfully and efficiently making your own jump rings, the cornerstone of the chain maker's art.
Lavishly illustrated step-by-step projects include: Byzantine Chain, Celtic Visions Variations, Contessa Chain, DNA Chain, Double Lace Chain, Double-Infinity Bracelet, Enigma Chain, Flat Queen's Link Chain, Flip-Flop Chain, Foxtail Bracelet, Graduated Byzantine Chain, Half-Persian 3-in-1 Chain, Jazzi-Chain Bracelet, Lacey-Chain Necklace, Little Princess Bracelet, Paradigm Bracelet, Queen's Link, Rosette Link Necklace, Scary Weave Bracelet, Serendipity Chain, and Simplicity Chain.
In addition to the how-to specific to making each of the presented projects, numerous helpful hints regarding various chain-making techniques in general fill out Chains by Becky as a must-have reference in any chain maker's personal library.

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Chain Mail Jewelry
Contemporary Designs from Classic Techniques
by Terry Taylor & Dylon Whyte
Hard cover, 10" x 8.5", 144 pages, copyright 2006.
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Sample How-to Chain Mail Jewelry shows you how to make dazzling, distinctive jewelry by interlocking anodized aluminum, gold, or silver rings. Once employed to create protective garments, chain mail techniques and patterns have now been adapted for jewelry making by innovative artists. Making chain mail jewelry requires very few tools, yet you'll be able to achieve impressive results. From an inlaid Chain Mail Pendant to a Japanese Hexagonal Mail Collar, the 29 extraordinary fully illustrated, step-by-step projects presented in this book will introduce you to a variety of exciting techniques for all skill levels.
If you have two pairs of flat or chain nose pliers, you're almost ready to start. Chain Mail Jewelry gives you a handsome selection of projects that can be constructed using just pliers while you sit at your dining room table or even while you watch television. Chain Mail Jewelry is project-centric and organized into four major sections. The first section, Chain Mail Basics, covers What is Chain Mail?, Tools, Materials, Finishing Touches, and Making Chain Mail. The three project sections organize the 29 jewelry projects by skill level.
Beginning Projects presents Titanium Duet Necklace and Bracelet, Hana-Gusari Anklet, Japanese Cascade Earrings with Pearls, Double Triangle Earrings, Gold and Amethyst Parure, King's Mail Bracelet, Golden Lariat, Möbiused Rosettes Bracelet, Natasha Necklace, Inlaid Chain Mail Pendant, Spiraling Chain, and Red and Black Cuff.
Intermediate Projects presents Byzantine Parure, Crochet Mandala Pendant & Earrings, Free-Form Flat Mail, Hana-Gusari Bangle, Japanese 4-1 Chain Mail Bracelet, Lace Mail Cocktail Collar with Pearls, Flexible Chain Mail Watchband, and Japanese 6-1 Chain Mail Bracelet.
Advanced Projects presents Japanese Lace Collar, Braided Bracelet, Chandelier Earrings, Coif Cage Amethyst, Diamond Chain Mail Earrings, Double Strand Japanese Cube Necklace, Rain Earrings, Japanese Hexagonal Mail Collar, and Tasseled Snake Lariat.
Also included is a photographic artist's gallery providing further ideas and inspiration, a bibliography of contributing designers, a wire gauge chart, and index. Chain Mail Jewelry belongs in the personal library of any jewelry maker and will be especially appreciated for its beautiful projects and excellently executed step-by-step diagrams and easy to follow illustrations.

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Cheap Thrills in the Tool Shop
Inexpensive Equipment Options and Bench Tricks for Goldsmiths
by Charles Lewton-Brain Cheap Thrills in the Tool Shop is a profusely illustrated text presenting a loose, eclectic collection of short cuts, tricks and alternative equipment options for smiths. It represents a compilation of what are usually termed 'bench tricks' but might be properly termed "vernacular western goldsmithing tools and techniques". Most of what is described are tools that arise from practice, methods that are distilled from innumerable anonymous goldsmiths and metalworkers. A chapter on shop machines covers the anvil, buffing machine, casting machine, drill press, flexible shaft, hydraulic press, pickle pot, rolling mill, rotary tumbler, rubber mold vulcanizer, vacuum casting and investing machine, vacuum cleaner, and wax injector. A chapter on miscellaneous small tools covers bezel and bracelet mandrels, chasing tools, copper scoop, dapping tools, engraver's ball, files, flexible shaft tools, hammers, jump rings, pliers, pocket knife, raising compass, ring clamp, scrapers, stakes, swages, and wax tools. A chapter on procedures and associated tools includes drawing wire, mold making, polishing and finishing tools, burnishers, scoring and bending, soldering and soldering tools, stonesetting and its tools, and tubing cutting. Includes an appendix of supplier addresses. Soft Cover, 8.5" x 11", 80 pages.

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Complete Book of Jewelry Making
A Full-Color Introduction to the Jeweler's Art
by Carles Codina
Soft cover, 12" x 9", 160 pages, copyright 2000
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Sample page Work with glittering gold and sparkling silver to make the kind of exquisite, contemporary jewelry you dream of owning. In the Complete Book of Jewelry Making you'll find key techniques that will open up endless creative possibilities for you. Learn the secrets of cutting and piercing, forging with different hammers to affect shape, size and texture; and joining metal and other decorative materials. Beautifully enhance surfaces, from embossing designs to producing a spectacular mirrored finish. Try related jewelry techniques, such as enameling, which lets you color metal in a wide variety of hues. Then practice your new skills on seven projects, including an elegant gold pendant with a handsome chain.
The Introduction covers the Origins of Human Ornamentation and Contemporary Jewelry. The Metallurgy chapter covers The Properties of Metals, Alloys, Melting, Annealing and Pickling, and The Care and Recovery of Metal. The Basic Techniques chapter covers Preparing Basic Shapes, Filing and Sanding, Piercing, Soldering, Other Types of Joins, Making Domes and Cylinders, Forging, Hinges and Hinge Structure, Closures, and Jump Rings. The Surfaces chapter covers Acid Etching, Combining Metals, Granulation, Creating Textures, Metal Finishes, and Patination. The Related Techniques chapter covers Chasing and Repoussé, Urushi (Japanese Lacquer), Enameling, Stone Setting, and Wax Model Carving and Lost Wax Casting.
The Step By Step projects chapter shows you how to make a Repoussé Pendant, Brooch, Articulated Bracelet with Clasp, Gold Pendant with Chain, Multiple Loop-in-Loop Chain, Hollow-Construction Ring, and a Crocheted Chain.

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The Creative Jeweler
Inspirational Projects Using Semi-precious and Everyday Materials
by Sharon McSwiney, Penny Williams, Claire Davies, Jennie Davies The Creative Jeweler presents comprehensive techniques and advice for working with a wide variety of jewelry making equipment and materials. Included are dozens of step-by-step projects for making decorative and stylish jewelry including broaches, pins, bangles, bracelets, chokers and earrings. This book is well illustrated with color photographs and complete with a comprehensive technique section. It offers advice on how to work with various metals, ceramics and plastics to produce professional results whether the aim is something elegant, fun, classic or modern. Soft cover, 9" x 9", 160 pages.

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Creative Silver Chains
20 Dazzling Designs
by Chantal Lise Saunders
Hard cover, 10" x 9", 111 pages, copyright 2005
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Sample Gallery Chain Handmade silver chains are actually miniature kinetic sculptures, created by joining together a series of links. Now you can learn how to make exquisite chains, as well as coordinating earrings, that will become the backbone of any jewelry collection. Complete with 20 sophisticated projects and a thorough introduction to basic chain making and silver working techniques, Creative Silver Chains will show you how to create striking jewelry that will never be seen anywhere else.
Contents include: Artful Chain Making, Materials, Studio Essentials, Technique, Design, and the Projects. Presented is detailed how-to for 20 project necklace and earring sets including the Circle Necklace and Earrings, Amoeba Necklace and Earrings, Geometric Necklace and Earrings, Spine Necklace and Earrings, Wiggle Necklace and Earrings, Bar Necklace and Earrings, Scallop Necklace and Earrings, Spiral Necklace and Earrings, Teardrop Necklace and Earrings, Tadpole Necklace and Earrings, Demi-Circle Necklace and Earrings, Baseball Necklace and Earrings, Oval Stack Necklace and Earrings, Joined Snakes Necklace and Earrings, Square Cross Necklace and Earrings, Paddle Necklace and Earrings, Square Scale Necklace and Earrings, Butterfly Necklace and Earrings, Layered Circles Necklace and Earrings, and the Bubble Necklace and Earrings. Appendices include a key to wire gauges and glossary.
If you are looking for chain and earring making ideas and how-to, you will appreciate Creative Silver Chains.

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Custom Knifemaking
10 Projects from a Master Craftsman
by Tim McCreight Custom Knifemaking spans the gap between pre-cut and art knives with step-by-step illustrated instructions for creating beautiful and unique knives. Learn how to make these projects, or designs of your own: kitchen paring knife, full-tang all-purpose knife, partial-tang carving knife, through-tang skinner, wilderness knife, forged camp knife, kitchen chopper, one-blade pocket knife, lockback folding knife, and Damascus steel dagger. Additional chapters cover tools, materials, knife design, sheath making, and forge set-up. Highly recommended for anyone with an interesting in making custom knives or simply learning more about the process and knife design. Soft cover, 7" x 9", 222 pages.

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The Design and Creation of Jewelry
by Robert von Neumann The Design and Creation of Jewelry is a standard reference for hundreds of thousands of craftspeople, professional jewelry designers and students of jewelry making. The author describes jewelry-making materials and tools, including directions for setting up and equipping the workshop, and such basic techniques as transferring designs to metal, cutting, stamping, soldering, pickling, coloring, polishing and applying fittings and findings. There is information on heat coloring, electrochemical polishing, burnout, vacuum-assisted casting, making rubber molds, and the techniques of marrying metals and thin-gauge lamination. Material on electroforming and reticulation is also included. Hundreds of photographs and descriptive drawings clarify techniques, illustrate new tools and specialized equipment for the workshop, and show the work of scores of artists working in repousse and chasing, annealing, casting, engraving, filigree, inlay and overlay, enameling, mellow, lamination and granulation. Soft cover, 7" x 9", 321 pages.

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Design Language
by Tim McCreight Design Language brings fresh insight to students and practicing designers by examining the words they use. This compact volume presents 100 keywords with background etymology and commentary. Whether the word is as familiar as "edge" or perhaps new to you like "synesthesia", you'll find yourself moving easily from one entry level to the next, intrigued by the rich layers of meaning you discover. Teachers of design will appreciate the brief, clear and inclusive presentation. The dynamic layout invites notation, making the book a starting point for personal vocabulary, both visual and literal. The stitched binding is tough enough for years of studio use, and the compact size will fit into a toolbox or pocket. Design Language understands that a book can't teach design. Instead, it helps people learn by using vocabulary to explore style, form and composition. Hard cover, 4" x 7", 188 pages.